Sunday, June 19, 2011

Guys With Flies in July

Back by popular demand is the McPhail fly fishing trip to _____________  (you help me fill in the blank).

[Back to this destination help in a moment.] 

Guys with Flies in July is a pseudo-annual quasi-vacation for the rod-flickin' dudes in my family -- "pseudo-annual" because most times it's a pain in my Scottish arse to get even TWO guys' schedules to jive, and so, as it was, our outings were "planned" to be annual but never quite panned out to be such --  "quasi-vacation" because it was so much work that by the time we made it home, returning to work was an effing paradise.

My brother Todd can vouch. I planned a helluva trip for he and I back in 2007. Three locations, both New Mexico and Colorado, 7 or 8 rivers, gobs of wild trout. We were stoked. But on day one of our event we were nearly baked alive in a canyon-- two walking pizzas upon the black basalt stones of the Red River Gorge. Our mission was easy: fish upstream all day and climb out of the deep canyon on the next trail up. But missions often change in lieu of themselves.

The 800 foot descent into the canyon canyon was cake. Camelbaks full of water. Rods locked and loaded. Finally there. We fished hard, though the water was high and murky. All day I worried about drinking water, and how hard the hike out would be.

But we never found that trail. At 100 degrees, plus radiating heat from the brick oven-like rocks, sweat was wrung from our bodies like dirty dish rags and we had no choice but to head back the way we came. It was the only route we knew with any certainty.

We'd come three miles in. Easy. We'd been busy fishing. I'd caught two browns, Todd had two on but lost them. But the three miles back out would be a Hell like we'd never known.

Mile 1 -- Dry mouth. Very little perspiration. Prickly heat on every exposed pore. Sluggish thoughts, as though thoughts were becoming gooey and thick. Blood dripping down my face from a low-hanging limb jabbing into my scalp. And this is not a foot trail, this is boulder crawling the entire way, like climbing through Carlsbad Caverns on fire.

Mile 2 -- Zero perspiration left. Boiling skin. Periodic chills. Thoughts of our infernal deaths and a double funeral plague my brain. And a growing sense that we won't make the 800 foot ascent out of the canyon even IF we make it back to the trailhead. Vultures are literally circling above us, waiting...watching...hoping...

Several times I submerge my body neck deep in the cold river to bring my body temperature down. But all I can think of is drinking it in, risking illness -- an instant gratification in trade for an assured physical nightmare later. I passed.

Mile 3 -- We ultimately made it back to the the trail. Barely. Thoughts of hiking uphill the rest of the way out destroyed my morale. I could see no way this was possible. My legs were ceasing up and throbbing with lactic acid. Keeping them perfectly straight helped keep the charlie horses from knotting up. But I couldn't do that and hike too.

Visions of Aaron Ralston and Lance Armstrong 100 feet in front of me, calling me lazy and weak and screaming names like "pussy" and "fat ass" were the only things that kept me going. The visions of them seemed as real as my brother marching one switchback ahead of me, the trail eternal, the steps, countless.

Each time I sat to rest, I'd wake up a few moments later with my face on a rock or on the gravel trail, scalded from the heat, with no idea how long I'd slept. Then I'd hear their ghostly calls, "Pussy!" and up I'd get, trying to keep up with my zombie-brother who was experience the same dehydration symptoms as I.

After an agonizing hour of this hike-rest-pass out-hike again routine, reaching the canyon rim gradually became a possibility. My brother would blurt down to me inaudible commands. I'd reply with only grunts. The heat made speaking far too laborious. Even if I'd wanted to cry, I wouldn't have had the energy, nor the water to create the tears.

When Todd reached the rim, it was real. I could make it as well. I found inside of me the heart of a lion and a insatiable appetite for living the end of my life. There is no man more powerful and driven than the man, on the brink of death, who owns his own destiny. With Frankenstein style paces I sorely found my way up the final few switchbacks, where, upon reaching the rim, I fell to my knees and wished I could cry. I thanked seven gods and crawled the rest of the way to my Jeep where Todd was drinking from our cold water stash in the back.

Yes, after day one of Guys with Flies in July 2007, returning to work was a paradise.

Hopefully this year's event won't be so... oh, what's the word I'm searching for? Fatal?

Anyways, with wildfires and droughts abound, we're searching for the perfect mid-July camping/fly-fishing/backpacking destination. Destinations that I know are out of the question: Jemez Mnts (too dry)
White Mnts Arizona (on fire)  Taos (done that)    Angelfire (little camping and no rivers)    Durango  (too far away)    Cuchara (not wild enough)  

Anyone have any ideas? Please respond here, or to chadmcphail@gmail.com. I'd love to entertain any thoughts... 


Support the "Healing Waters" documentary, by Steve Hasty

On the Virginia trip I took with fellow scotch-sipping Healing Waters bro, Kyle McAdams, we both had the extraordinary pleasure of meeting Steve Hasty, renowned videographer and photographer among a slough of other talents. The following is a link to donate to his project. Please visit and make your dollars count for something important -- our soldiers' stories need to seen and heard.

Donate to Project Healing Waters: The Film


Monday, June 13, 2011

...To Catch a Trout (From my book Between Fact & Fishin')

Once in a while I get the chance
To roll my sleeves and skip The Dance,
And pass on the chance to get in her pants,
To try to catch some trout.

I pack my duds, and buy some food.
I fill my tank with premium crude.
Can’t get arrested fishing nude.
Jus’ wanna catch some trout.

I tie one on, then tie on a fly.
I’ve kissed my lady's lips good‐bye,
In case I drown - in case I die,
While trying to land a trout.

Now by and by, I do real well.
I reel some in, and others... “Oh well.”
I lose a few, but what the Hell,
I tried to catch those trout.

I don’t give up. I try again.
I’m not like other fishin’ men,
I’ll fish until the very end
To try to net one trout.

I’ll fish until the sun gets low.
Those fish ain't got nowhere to go.
I’ll fry them all until they glow
To say “I caught a trout.”

I'll use my rod to harness a bolt,
a bolt of lightning to give 'em a jolt.
I don’t have time for bugs to molt.
I need to bag a trout!

Okay. You’re right. I can’t do that.
Perhaps I’ll take my baseball bat.
I’ll swing it hard and smash ‘em flat.
Now that’ll stop a trout.

If that won’t work, I’ll get a net.
I haven’t met a wet net yet
That couldn’t get a fish upset.
I’ll scoop me out some trout.

I know. I’m sick. I’m just not right.
That alibi won’t be airtight.
That sight might invite an outright fight.
Is all that worth a trout?

I try and try to find a place
Where no one there will see my face,
‘Cause what I do is a disgrace.
But I gotta catch a trout.

I look and look, and nary I find
The piece of water in my mind.
I hope and pray God shall be kind
So I can find those trout.

Until the day I find those streams,
The rolling rivers of my dreams,
Where fish are fat and swim in teams,
I’ll learn about those trout.

I’ll study what they like to eat.
I’ll find out how they can be beat.
I’ll write it all down on my sheet,
And learn to fool some trout.

Perhaps someday I’ll find a spot,
Where water’s cold but fishin’s hot,
And hippies ain’t there smokin’ pot,
So I can snag my trout.

But if I don’t, then no big deal.
The Golden Arches "Fill‐a‐Creel”
"I need a Fillet ‘o’ Fish Extra Value Meal...
I didn’t catch no trout."

I’ll take it home and fill my gut.
I’ll take a load off of my butt,
And contemplate how, when, where and what... 
And why I love these trout.

And if those creeks and streams run dry,
And all those trout just up and die,
And rise to flies in “The Rivers in the Skies,”
Well then...

I got a brand new shotgun I can’t shoot worth a shit either... 
maybe I’ll take up Snipe Hunting.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Why do I fish...

“Once there were brook trout in the streams in the mountains. You could see them standing in the amber current where the white edges of their fins wimpled softly in the flow. They smelled of moss in your hand. Polished and muscular and torsional. On their backs were vermiculate patterns that were maps of the world in its becoming. Maps and mazes. Of a thing which could not be put back. Not be made right again. In the deep glens where they lived all things were older than man and they hummed of mystery.”

the final paragraph from The Road
by Cormac McCarthy


 
This paragraph was where "In Search of Wild Trout" began for me. Reading these few lines on a blistering summer day in 2007. With every page still fresh on the mind, I found myself returning to certain, dog-eared leaves of The Road, marveling over entire breaths of passages, mesmerized by the author’s cadence, awestruck with the book’s stark nature of words, belittled by an irreverent, yet somehow, poetic genius, and feeling tortured by the story’s parallel to my own liferoad. Its plot seemed to haunt the inescapable cyclical nature of my own plot -- loss, rehabilitate, success... lose more, rehabilitate more, success again. 

Here, I’d just completed one of the most satisfying books of my life, when suddenly the notion occurs to me, "I did not find this book. This book has somehow found me" -- and it crushes me, grinding my bones to dust. I believe you will see why when you, too, read the book and reflect upon the great many things you have lost in this world.

I hope every man who has had the pleasure of fishing or hunting or outdoorsing it with his son will read The Road, by Cormac McCarthy. It is a masterpiece of literary genius, a story of absolution, of perfect love, easy to read, yet simultaneously, brutally difficult to finish. But I honestly believe that any man who reads it will immediately understand what is important, and what is trivial. It is not a book about fishing. It is a book about survival -- the survival of love, the survival of human kind, of the Earth, and the survival of all things good and clean within that world. Cormac just brings it all home with a final metaphor about the survival of wild brook trout in cold mountain stream -- the most perfect final paragraph of a book in the history of the world.  


Good reading!

Saturday, June 4, 2011

From Texas to Virginia and Back Again...

This first post will be in honor of a trip I recently took to the Virginias, and to Captain Ed Nicholson of Project Healing Waters Fly Fishing. How many of you would drive 3000 miles to deliver a vehicle? What if a few famous trout streams and locations were involved? (Google the Rapidan, Shenandoah Park, the North Fork of the South Branch of the Patomac River...) What if the trip would hardly cost you a thing -- less than a hundred ducats? What if you got to tag along with a good fishing buddy who you'd been dying to fish and drink scotch and bullshit with? And what if there was a chance to be on a world-renowned fly-fishing show like Fly Rod Chronicles, with award-winning host Curtis Fleming? What if you would actually get the ad hoc opportunity to work as a photographer behind the scenes of the show? And what if you were going to be a judge in fly-fishing competition and win a fly-tying vice just for helping out? And to top it all off, what if the guy you were delivering the vehicle to was THE man who founded PROJECT HEALING WATERS, Capt. Ed Nicholson?

I had that very opportunity last week. Yup. Did all that, and more. But let me start off by saying that, in travels, although I may be in search of trout 99% of the time, it's people who create culture. And between Virginians and West Virginians, the people Kyle McAdams and I encountered were of the greatest caliber. Hospitable and generous as they come. Douglas Dear, Todd Harman, Curtis Fleming, Ed Nicholson, Steve Hasty, Josh, Darren, Craig, Jerod, Jason, Mike, Greg... the list goes on and on... The trout fishing was amazing, sure. But it was the exceptional people who made the trip an absolute killer getaway for Kyle and I.

It wasn't an easy trip. 22 hours of driving each way, non-stop (well, we slept for about 5 hours coming home). We happened to have rolled through Joplin, Missouri, when it was still Joplin Missouri -- just hours before the tornado gouged through and children were ripped from their cars, where many have yet to be found. We saw Memphis, Tennessee with its own devastation of the Mississippi floods -- an iconic river that once ran a mile wide now sloughs three miles across, drop by drop, moving our farmers' precious topsoil into the gulf, grain by grain. We saw Oklahoma City and surrounding towns just after more malevolent tornadoes ripped guardrails from the earth and plucked cedar trees from their footholds, leveling buildings and homes just beyond the ditches, structures I'd seen a thousand before. I guess you could say Kyle and I saw about half the country, and nearly all of it was experiencing its own hell or pain in some way, shape or form. Many tears. Many wounds. Many lost.

With having seen all that, after 3000 miles of driving and feeling the end of the world is upon us, by and by, it was still somehow a remarkable trip. And to think, a love of trout and fly fishing brought it all together. Thank you, Ed Nicholson (Founder and President of Project Healing Waters), for purchasing your vehicle from Kyle McAdams (2010 Volunteer of the Year from Amarillo, Texas). And thank you, Captain Ed, for serving our country, and for forever serving our returning soldiers, many of whom are also experiencing their own hell and pain in some way shape or form. Many tears. Many wounds. Many lost.

I am extremely honored to be a part of Project Healing Waters and a part any team of yours. 
 
RESPECTFULLY,

W. Chad McPhail


                              Captain Ed Nicholson casts for wild brookies in the Rapidan River.